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The cosmetic and dermatological potential of keratin hydrolysate

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dc.title The cosmetic and dermatological potential of keratin hydrolysate en
dc.contributor.author Mokrejš, Pavel
dc.contributor.author Huťťa, Matouš
dc.contributor.author Pavlačková, Jana
dc.contributor.author Egner, Pavlína
dc.contributor.author Beníček, Lubomír
dc.relation.ispartof Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology
dc.identifier.issn 1473-2130 Scopus Sources, Sherpa/RoMEO, JCR
dc.date.issued 2017
utb.relation.volume 16
utb.relation.issue 4
dc.citation.spage e21
dc.citation.epage e27
dc.type article
dc.language.iso en
dc.publisher Blackwell Publishing Ltd.
dc.identifier.doi 10.1111/jocd.12319
dc.relation.uri http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.12319/full
dc.subject cosmetic formulation en
dc.subject humectant en
dc.subject hydration en
dc.subject keratin hydrolysate en
dc.subject TEWL en
dc.subject water loss en
dc.description.abstract Background: Although keratin hydrolysates have become established as standard components in hair and nail cosmetics, studies on the moisturizing effects of keratin hydrolysates do not appear among contemporary literature. Objectives: To test if adding keratin hydrolysate into an ointment base increases hydration of the skin and improves skin barrier function, or diminishes trans-epidermal water loss. Methods: Formulations were prepared containing 2%, 4%, and 6% keratin hydrolysates (based on weight of the ointment base). The moisturizing properties of keratin hydrolysates were tested by measuring skin hydration, trans-epidermal water loss and skin pH; measurements were carried out at intervals of 1, 2, 3, 4, 24, and 48 h. Testing was conducted on 10 women. Results: As regards hydration, adding 2% keratin hydrolysate to the ointment base is optimal, as an increase of 14%-23% occurs in hydration of the stratum corneum. For trans-epidermal water loss, adding 4% KH to the ointment base is preferential, as this triggers a 26%-46% decrease in trans-epidermal water loss. Conclusions: Keratin hydrolysate acts as a humectant (it binds water from lower layers of the epidermis to the stratum corneum) as well as an occlusive (it reduces trans-epidermal water loss). The highly favorable properties of keratin hydrolysates are attributed to the wide distribution of keratin hydrolysates molecular weights; low-molecular weight fractions easily penetrate the SC, while high-molecular weight fractions form a protective film on the epidermis. Adding keratin hydrolysates to the ointment base did not cause phase separation even after 6 mo storage. © 2017 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. en
utb.faculty Faculty of Technology
dc.identifier.uri http://hdl.handle.net/10563/1007620
utb.identifier.obdid 43877065
utb.identifier.scopus 2-s2.0-85012877459
utb.identifier.wok 000416913500004
utb.identifier.pubmed 28164425
utb.source j-scopus
dc.date.accessioned 2018-01-15T16:31:33Z
dc.date.available 2018-01-15T16:31:33Z
dc.description.sponsorship IGA of Tomas Bata University in Zlin [IGA/FT/2017/007]
utb.contributor.internalauthor Mokrejš, Pavel
utb.contributor.internalauthor Huťťa, Matouš
utb.contributor.internalauthor Pavlačková, Jana
utb.contributor.internalauthor Egner, Pavlína
utb.contributor.internalauthor Beníček, Lubomír
utb.scopus.affiliation Department of Polymer Engineering, Faculty of Technology, Tomas Bata University in Zlin, Zlin, Czech Republic; Department of Fat, Tenside and Cosmetics Technology, Faculty of Technology, Tomas Bata University in Zlin, Zlin, Czech Republic
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